Castle of Campo Maior

Welcome to Kam-po My-ohr, a town whose history is literally forged in fire and gunpowder. Standing here at the castle, you are at a point of immense geopolitical sensitivity. …

We enter through the main gateway, which reflects the post-1732 reconstruction style. Notice the more streamlined, utilitarian design compared to the ornate Gothic gateways of other Alentejo castles. …

We now stand in what remains of the central courtyard, near the ruins of the once-mighty keep. This was the location of the fatal powder magazine. …

Climbing to the northern bastions, we are greeted by a view that has dictated the life of this town for a millennium. On a clear day, the city of Badajoz is clearly visible across the Spanish border. …

Walking back through the inner enclosure, or 'cerca,' you will notice that the castle grounds are not entirely empty. Like many Alentejo fortresses, there is a sense of the town 'leaking' into the castle. …

Just outside the main castle area sits the Capela dos Ossos, or the Bone Chapel. While technically part of the Church of São João Baptista, its history is inextricably linked to the castle and the 1732 explosion. …

As we conclude our loop of the castle, we must acknowledge the modern industry that surrounds it: coffee. Kam-po My-ohr is the home of Delta Cafés, one of Portugal’s most famous brands. …

Our tour of the Castle of Kam-po My-ohr concludes. We have walked the line between Portugal and Spain, stood at the epicenter of a historic explosion, and seen the resilience of a town that rebuilt itself from the bones of the…