Split Synagogue

Welcome to one of the most intellectually and historically profound corners of Split. As we stand here in the northwestern quadrant of the ancient Palace of Diocletian, we are about to enter a space that encapsulates half a…

We now find ourselves in Zhidovski Prolaz, or the Jewish Passage. Observe the narrowness of this street; it is a classic example of the urban densification that occurred within the palace walls during the Middle Ages. …

As we pause before the entrance, take a moment to analyze the physical structure. The synagogue is located on the first floor—or what Americans would call the second floor—of two medieval houses that were joined together. …

Entering the sanctuary, one is immediately struck by the warmth and intimacy of the space. The room is characterized by its traditional Sephardic layout, which differs significantly from the Ashkenazi synagogues of the north. …

Let us focus our attention specifically on the Holy Ark, the focal point of the sanctuary. The Aron Kodesh is where the physical and the spiritual intersect. …

As we move toward the rear of the sanctuary, we encounter a more somber aspect of the synagogue’s history. A memorial plaque lists the names of the community members who were killed during the Holocaust. …

Looking at the synagogue today, we see a community that is small in number—perhaps twenty to thirty active members—but immense in its dedication. There is no permanent rabbi in Split; instead, the community is led by local…

As we descend the narrow staircase and re-emerge into the sunlight of the Jewish Passage, take a moment to reflect on the layers of history we have just traversed. We began in a Roman Emperor's palace, moved through a medieval…