Santi Giovanni e Paolo

Welcome to Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo, or as the locals call it, Campo San Zanipolo. For a scholar of urban space, this 'campo'—which is the Venetian word for square—is one of the most beautiful and historically dense…

At the center of the square stands the equestrian statue of Bartolomeo Colleoni, a masterpiece by the Florentine sculptor Andrea del Verrocchio, completed in the late 1400s. Colleoni was a 'condottiero,' a professional military…

Adjacent to the basilica is the Scuola Grande di San Marco, one of the most magnificent facades in Venice. Built in the late fifteenth century by Pietro Lombardo and Mauro Codussi, it was the headquarters of one of the city's six…

Continuing the theme of the hospital, I invite you to observe the unique logistics of medical care in a city without cars. The Ospedale Civile is a sprawling complex that extends far back from its Renaissance facade. …

In the center of the campo sits one of the city’s many public wellheads, or 'vere da pozzo.' While they are now decorative, for centuries these wells were the only source of fresh water for the city’s residents. Venice,…

The western edge of the square is defined by the Rio dei Mendicanti, or the Canal of the Beggars. This waterway offers one of the most picturesque views in Venice, looking toward the northern lagoon. …

Returning our attention to the basilica itself, take a moment to consider its unfinished brick facade. For the scholar of Venetian architecture, this 'rough' exterior is as significant as the most ornate marble palace. …

As we conclude our time in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo, I hope you have developed a deeper appreciation for the complex layering of this extraordinary space. We have stood before the bronze might of Colleoni, marveled at the…