Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat

Welcome to Phitsanulok, a vital, historic city situated on the banks of the Nan River. While many travelers rush through central Thailand on the train from Bangkok directly to the ancient ruins of Sukhothai, to bypass Phitsanulok…

Before we enter the glittering main halls, we must walk through the eastern sector of the temple grounds, where the raw bones of the 14th century lie exposed. Here, you will find the brick foundations and truncated stone columns…

We now approach the facade of the main Vihara, the architectural crown jewel of the complex. The open square in front provides the perfect vantage point to admire the sweeping, multi-tiered rooftops that seem to cascade downward…

Step inside the Vihara, and allow your eyes to adjust to the dim, cool interior. Before you sits Phra Buddha Chinnarat. …

Exiting the main Vihara through a side door, we enter the cloister galleries that form a rectangular perimeter around the central courtyard. These covered walkways provide a shaded, meditative space away from the dense crowds of…

Stepping into the central courtyard, your view is dominated by the massive Prang. Unlike the bell-shaped stupas of the earlier Sukhothai period, this tower is built in a distinctly Khmer-inspired, 'corncob' style, a major…

Our final architectural stop is the smaller Ordination Hall, or Uposatha, located toward the rear of the complex. While it houses a beautiful seated Buddha, the true treasures of this building are the vibrant, Bangkok-era murals…

As we retrieve our shoes and prepare to leave the grounds of Wat Yai, let us reflect on the profound layering of history we have witnessed. We have touched the rough, sun-baked bricks of the 14th century, stood in awe of the…