plaza Miserere

Welcome to Plaza Miserere (Mee-seh-reh-reh), the beating, chaotic heart of the Balvanera neighborhood in Buenos Aires. Often referred to simply as 'Once' (Ohn-seh) due to the massive railway terminal adjacent to it, this square…

Standing near the center of the plaza, you are immediately confronted by the sheer volume of public transportation. Unlike traditional squares that offer a quiet refuge from traffic, Plaza Miserere is bisected by major roads…

As you walk around the perimeter of the plaza, one of the most prominent features of the modern landscape is the visible security apparatus. It is impossible to ignore the pairs of police officers patrolling every hundred to two…

At the geographic center of the plaza stands its most historically significant monument: the Mausoleum of Bernardino Rivadavia. Though the area was partially fenced off during recent renovations, the grand structure remains a…

Moving toward the edges of the plaza, we encounter the intense commercial reality of the Balvanera neighborhood. The streets radiating from Miserere are famous for their wholesale and discount retail shops. …

Looming over the eastern edge of the plaza is the massive structure of Estación Once de Septiembre, commonly known just as 'Once' (Ohn-seh). This railway terminal is the reason the plaza pulses with such incredible volume. …

Looking up and away from the street level chaos, one can appreciate the architectural frame of Plaza Miserere. Despite the gritty street life, the buildings surrounding the square are a testament to Argentina's golden age. …

As we conclude our tour of Plaza Miserere, take one last look at the swirling chaos around you. This square is not a sanitized tourist destination; it is a vital, working organ of Buenos Aires. …