Holmen

Welcome to HOL-men. As you step onto this interconnected series of artificial islands, you are crossing the threshold into one of Copenhagen's most dramatic urban transformations. …

As we walk along the old quays, your eyes are inevitably drawn upward to the most iconic and structurally fascinating relic of the naval era: the Mastekranen, or Mast Crane. Erected in 1749, this towering, dark timber structure…

Let us turn our attention to the long, low, concrete structures that dominate the adjacent waterfront: the former Torpedo Halls. These buildings represent a different, much darker era of Holmen's military history, dating to the…

As we move further along the water's edge, we are confronted by a structure that aggressively breaks from the dark, heavy naval aesthetic of the surrounding buildings. Before us rises the Royal Danish Opera House, an absolute…

We now cross the small bridge leading to REFS-hay-luh-uh-en, the northernmost island in the complex. The atmosphere here changes abruptly. …

Amidst the rusted steel and cracked concrete of the old shipyard, we find the epicenter of a global culinary revolution. It was here, in this seemingly inhospitable industrial wasteland, that René Redzepi relocated his…

Our final destination in this industrial sector is Reffen, a sprawling, chaotic, and incredibly vibrant street food market located at the very edge of the island, staring out across the open harbor. If Noma represented the elite,…

As we conclude our extensive survey of HOL-men and REFS-hay-luh-uh-en, take a moment to look back across the water toward the historic spires of the old city center. The contrast is profound. …