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Shinjuku Golden Gai

Tokyo Prefecture · Japan

8 story sections

The alley is narrow and cramped with countless signs advertising the various establishments that line the way. Many of the buildings themselves are made of wood, remnants hanging on from the Showa Era. Most measure only around thirteen square meters (one hundred forty-two square feet). It's a dim, boisterous place filled with the aromatic smoke of grilling meats. Yet despite the nearly endless number of slick new restaurants available in Shinjuku, this little alley continues to draw the attention of foreign tourists. Golden Gai is a popular “un-touristy” tourist spot.

History & cultureBY TELLBY

Contents

8 sections · tap a section for its opening lines
  1. 1Orientation

    Welcome to Golden Gai, a tiny, six-alley enclave that feels like a portal to the Tokyo of the 1950s and 60s. As a scholar of cultural history, I consider Golden Gai to be one of the most remarkable examples of architectural and…

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  2. 2The Post-War Preservation — G1 and G2 Alleys

    We begin our walk in the G1 and G2 Alleys, the most historically significant parts of the district. Observe the buildings: they are weathered, two-story wooden structures that have miraculously survived the 'Bubble Economy' of…

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  3. 3Theme Bar Culture — Anime, Jazz, and Rock

    One of the defining features of Golden Gai is the 'Theme Bar.' Because the spaces are so small, many owners cater to a specific 'niche' to attract a loyal following. Look for bars that advertise their specialties on the door: you…

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  4. 4Aces Bar — Music, Film, and the Denver Connection

    We must highlight a specific establishment that embodies the international spirit of Golden Gai: 'Aces' (Aces Music Salon). The owner, Mitsusan, has run this bar for over twenty-one years and is a singer and actor himself. …

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  5. 5Araku Bar and the 'Samurai Rock'

    Another notable stop is 'Araku,' which is considered one of the 'larger' bars in the district—though 'large' in Golden Gai means it might seat fifteen people. Araku is famous for its 'Samurai Rock' drink. …

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  6. 6The Etiquette of the 'Otoshi' and Cover Charges

    To visit Golden Gai with sophistication, one must understand its financial and social etiquette. Most bars here implement a 'cover charge' (Ka-ba-chu-chi) ranging from 500 to 1000 Yen. …

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  7. 7The Creative Hub — Writers and Comedians

    Beyond the drinks, Golden Gai has a storied history as a hub for Japan's 'Creative Intelligentsia.' During the 1960s and 70s, this was where novelists like Kenji Nakagami and film directors like Nagisa Oshima would gather to…

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  8. 8Closing

    As we depart the six narrow alleys of Golden Gai, I hope you have felt the 'pulse of old Tokyo' that still beats within these wooden walls. We have explored the preservation of the post-war Nagaya scale, the vibrant subcultures…

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What is Shinjuku Golden Gai?

Shinjuku Golden Gai is a place in Tokyo Prefecture · Japan with 8 story sections on Tellby. You can read the opening of each section on this page; the sound plays in the app.

Key facts
LocationTokyo Prefecture · Japan
TypeActivity
Story sections8
Text languageEnglish
Coordinates35.6938, 139.7045
Last updated

Nearby places

within a 5-minute walk
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